"Go thy way, eat thy bread with joy, and drink thy wine with a merry heart." Ecclesiastes 9:7
In November, 1991, CBS's "Sixty Minutes" aired a segment on the puzzling fact that French citizens, who smoke more, exercise less, and consume far more saturated fat than Americans, have an appreciably lower rate of coronary heart disease (CHD). After decades of research, French scientist Serge Renaud concluded that this "French Paradox" was likely attributable to the fact that the French consume ten times as much wine -- mainly red -- as Americans do. Renaud cited the effect of alcohol in reducing blood cholesterol levels and the possible role of anti-oxidant phenolic compounds in the skins of red grapes.
In recent years, the inverse relationship between moderate alcohol consumption and CHD risk, and, indeed, mortality from all causes, has been corroborated by numerous scientific studies from around the world, confirming what imbibers throughout history have known: a bit of wine each day enhances the quality of life.
It should be noted that all purported health benefits linked to wine are associated with moderate consumption, generally defined as one to two 4 oz. glasses per day for women and two to three for men. Scientists agree that individuals consuming more than three 4 oz. glasses per day may be at increased risk for adverse health effects, including cirrhosis of the liver, high blood pressure, stroke, and certain cancers.
It's the alcohol, stupid!
Major studies of mortality rates for alcohol abstainers, moderate consumers and abusers, most notably those conducted by Kaiser-Permanente, Harvard's School of Public Health and, most recently, the Institute of Preventive Medicine in Copenhagen, Denmark (reported on in September, 1995 in a follow-up story by "60 Minutes"), have established the validity of the U-Shaped Curve, the fact that moderate drinkers live longer, by an average of 3%, than either abusers or abstainers. The primary reason is a significantly diminished CHD mortality rate, reflecting a major reduction in fatal heart attacks and strokes caused by clogging of coronary arteries by fatty deposits of cholesterol.
Researchers have shown that alcohol raises the level in the blood of high-density lipoproteins (HDL), the so-called "good" cholesterol, which reduces the level of low-density lipoproteins (LDL), the "bad" cholesterol that narrows arteries and blocks the flow of blood to the heart. Wine appears to offer a more protective effect than other alcoholic beverages, possibly because it is customarily consumed with food. Scientists estimate that 50% of the protective effect of moderate wine consumption results from the raising of HDL cholesterol and that, in this regard, there is no difference between white and red wine.
Friendly Phenols
The other half of wine's protective cardiovascular benefit may derive from its anti-oxidant properties, attributable to the many phenolic compounds in wine, such as grape tannin. (Other well-known anti-oxidants include Vitamin C, E and beta-carotene.) In laboratory tests, these compounds inhibit the oxidation of LDL cholesterol, which is most damaging when it breaks up (oxidizes) and attaches itself to artery walls, the first step in the disease etiology of atherosclerosis.
This effect could explain why red wine consumption seems to reduce CHD risk more than white, because reds ferment on their skins, which contain most of the phenolic compounds. Although a causal relationship between anti-oxidants in wine and a reduced risk of CHD has yet to be conclusively established, accumulating circumstantial evidence is prompting researchers to focus on this area.
Some scientists suggest that anti-oxidants may also have anti-carcinogenic properties. One prominent phenolic compound in red wine, quercitin, also found in onions, green tea, broccoli, and apples, has in laboratory tests retarded the growth of tumor cells. Two others, catechin and resveratrol, are also being studied.
Back to the Future
As studies have accumulated confirming the causal link between moderate wine consumption and a reduced risk of CHD, vintners have tried disseminating the news to their customers. However, given current federal regulations, even mildly worded, balanced statements on wine and health (on wine labels and in winery newsletters and promotional materials) have been opposed.
However, the tide is turning. In 1994, the United Nations' World Health Organization and the Harvard School of Public Health endorsed the Mediterranean Diet Pyramid (MDP), which includes wine -- a glass for women, two for men -- as an ingredient of a healthy diet and lifestyle.
Medical researchers have long noted that Mediterranean peoples have lower rates of coronary heart disease and cancer than people in other cultures. Only recently, however, have medical studies drawn the link between the overall health of these populations and their traditional diets, which customarily are high in bread, pasta, rice, grains, fruits, vegetables, legumes, nuts, and olive oil, while low in animal and other saturated fats. The MDP recommends daily consumption of these foods coupled with regular exercise and, optionally, wine in moderation.
Last year, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, after an extensive review of the medical literature, issued new dietary guidelines dropping previous language stating that consuming alcohol has no net health benefit. The new guidelines acknowledge that moderate consumption of alcohol with meals may be of benefit to certain people.
More evidence continues to emerge, revealing new aspects of the healthful properties of wine consumed in moderation with meals. During the first half of 1996, newly published studies have indicated that phenolic antioxidants in wine eradicate food-borne bacteria causing stomach ailments such as food poisoning, dysentery and diarrhea, and also aid in digestion. A new six-year Harvard study of 45,000 men found that consumption of several beverages, including coffee, tea, beer and wine, can reduce the incidence of kidney stone formation, with wine proving 39% more effective in this regard than the other drinks.
What's the bottom line on wine and health?
However, if you have been consuming wine in moderation with no ill effects, there's no reason to stop. In fact, you should be cheered to know that not only does your evening glass of wine give you pleasure, it may also contribute to your health.
Alcoholic beverages are not for everyone. A medical condition, a genetic predisposition to alcoholism, allergies, a special diet, or taking a medication contra-indicated for alcohol may argue against even light consumption of wine.
